How Loud is to Loud ?

March 4th, 2010

Mixes have definitely gotten louder in recent years. Of course there is no way that digital audio can go higher in level than full scale (0 dBFS), but the closer and more often a signal approaches 0 dBFS, then the louder it will sound. The tools for this are compression, limiting, and very careful watchful eyes and ears for clipping. The reason why mixes have gotten louder is because the equipment and software to make them so has become more common and more affordable, and more people know about it. The second is that mixes compete with each other for loudness. Take radio for example. Within the terms of a radio broadcaster’s license to transmit, they have to agree to a certain transmission power level. There is nothing that can be done at the radio station to make a signal any higher in level. This is the radio station’s equivalent of 0dBFS. But if mixes can be made subjectively louder in the studio, it follows that whoever’s mix is subjectively the loudest will sound loudest on air. Other mixes will be quieter in comparison. And loudness gets attention. The same applies in clubs. The level of a PA system is set to comply with the limits of the equipment, and often decibel limits applied by law or property rental agreements. So if a mix can sound subjectively louder within the same peak levels, it will be at an advantage compared to mixes that are not subjectively so loud. But the downside to this is that all the processes that make a mix loud downgrade the audio quality. So if you don’t want to listen so loud, it won’t sound so good. There is no area where this is more significant than music for TV and film use. If I am asked to ‘master’ your mixes and ‘optimize’ them for loudness, then you are damaging your audio quality to no good purpose. Your music is probably only going to be background anyway. For a title theme, then the post production house will optimize the levels as it thinks necessary. Although mastering is a straightforward process to apply, it is impossible to ‘unmaster’ a track. Best advice is to make a mix without any compression or limiting on the stereo mix and maybe some EQ if you wish. Also, your mix should be about 3 db down from your highest peaks in the song. This is a good starting point that recommend to my clients prior to mastering there project. This way you always have a clean, unmastered version of the mix that is versatile and can be applied to any kind of use.

The Importance of Acoustic Room Treatment for Optimum Results when Recording and Mixing.

December 18th, 2009

There’s been a bit of talk lately about acoustic room treatment and whether or not it makes a considerable difference. I will try to clarify this as best as I can, so we will start with a few simple questions.
Why should I acoustically treat my recording and mixing area?
There are four primary goals of acoustic treatment: 1) To prevent standing waves and acoustic interference from effecting the frequency response of recording studios; 2) to reduce modal ringing in small rooms and lower the reverb time in larger studios, churches, and auditoriums; 3) to absorb or diffuse sound in the room to avoid ringing and flutter echoes, and improve stereo imaging; and 4) to keep sound from leaking into or out of a room. That is, to prevent your music from disturbing the neighbors, and to keep the sound of passing trucks from getting into your microphones. Yes, it’s true! Not only can a room’s acoustics affect your recording, but it can also have an impact on how much sound is transmitted from and/or into the room. This is why it’s important to employ some form of acoustic treatment; to protect the sound you’re working so hard to create.
Once the sound is transmitted into your room, you’ll have two main considerations to address: absorption and diffusion.
What is Diffusion.
Dedicated diffusion panels will help to diffuse waves which might otherwise be bouncing around the room and cause early reflections and phase issues during critical listening periods and recording sessions.
Bass Absorption.
The thicker and more solid the walls are, the more likely you are to get a problem with bass frequencies (something to be aware of when sound proofing ). Reverberation, the ‘dying away’ of a sound, is natural to music. Most music is designed to be performed in a reverberant space – military band music being an obvious exception. When you make a recording, you need to be able to judge how much reverberation is on the recording. Excess reverberation in the room will color your judgment. Another problem with reverberation in the studio control room is that the frequency response of the room itself may not be flat. More than likely, there will be more reverb at bass frequencies. This will make you think that a recording has more low end than it actually does.
So where do you start?
A rule of thumb in basic acoustic design is live-end/dead-end. If you look around your room and all the walls have hard, live surfaces — that’s going to contribute greatly to a “boxy” sound. Pick a wall, whatever you might call the “front wall” and put absorbing material on at least 50% of the wall — especially in the middle section. The “material” could be anything from blankets to egg cartons to mattresses to carpet padding to bed padding to acoustical foam. One option I’d recommend is something like Sonex Classic. You can buy 2″ x 2′ x 4′ Panels. They come eight sheets to the box for $169, which covers 64 square feet. For a low cost bass trap, I’d recommend the Auralex 2” corner fills. All this takes a little bit of money and a bit of time and tweaking, but considering that the room is really the most important source of how everything recorded in it will sound — it’s worth spending a couple of hundred bucks [or less] and part of a day to get a good-sounding room. You’ll thank yourself in the long run, and your end product might reflect your efforts, and will provide me with great mix’s to master your CD from.
Ron

How to use nearfield monitors to get the most out of them for recording, mixing and mastering.

August 21st, 2009

In many Professional CD mastering and recording studios you will see studio control rooms with full-sized loudspeakers. Some with 15″ woofer driven bi amped 3 or 4 way speaker systems. Many control rooms are very large and are designed to use this type of monitoring properly. This type of monitoring environment is still used today in professional recording and mastering studios. With current speaker technology, and the increase in home and project studio popularity, smaller speakers have become more popular. These so-called “nearfield monitors” are designed to be able to somewhat accurately recreate the sound of the music in a smaller environment with the speakers placed more closely to the “sweet spot”. That said, many commercial, home and project studios still do not use them properly. If one is going to go to the considerable expense of buying nice speakers one should also put out the comparatively small effort of using them properly and get the best performance from them.
Stereo Speaker Placement
Nearfield speakers, as the name implies, are meant to be listened to from a closer range than common speakers. Typically nearfields are within 6 feet of the listeners ears. The speakers, in an optimal situation, will form a perfect triangle with the two speakers and the listeners head. If the right speaker is 6 feet from your right ear, the left should be 6 feet from your left ear and the two speakers should be six feet apart. Once you have that situated properly, it’s time to deal with height. I am unsure if this is a rule or just my experience and habit, but I personally place the speaker upright tweeter over woofer and have the tweeter as close to level with my ear as possible since the tweeter is the high frequencies, as they disperse less and die quicker than the low frequencies. Now there is the small matter of what to set them on. I will get in to the details of what works best after I say this: Whatever you set them on, make sure it’s the same for both of them. As we all know, different substances have different properties for absorbing vibrations and sound. Therefore, you want them both on the same surface. Setting them directly on your desk or any furniture like that is usually what happens, and it does work, but it’s not the best answer. This is problematic because if the full bottom surface of the speaker is resting on the desk a lot of vibration is then transmitted through the speaker and into the desk and will throw off your monitoring. Try to isolate the monitor from the rest of the room by absorbing vibration before it creates a problem. You can do this by using speaker stands. Make sure you set them to the correct height and distance from your mix position. You may want to fill the speaker columns with sand to help with sound vibration and to keep them stabilized. I use lead pellets or “buckshot” that is available at a gun shop or at a sporting goods store. This may be a little less messy then using sand. There are some things you can do much quicker, and less expensive. Putting any sort of small “feet” on your speakers, rubber pads or the little felt sticky things people put on chair and table legs that sit on wood floors can help minimize contact between the speaker and the surface it’s resting on, as well as absorbing vibration. Try some of these techniques . I know that they will improve your speaker performance.

When to pan left, when to pan right.

February 28th, 2008

This question comes from a Sound Affair client prior to mastering his CD…..

“When I use a pan knob on a audio console Studio or a software program and I pan it to the left, sitting facing my speakers, should the music then come out of my left or right side speaker?”

This might seem like an obvious question, but I’m a firm believer in having the obvious well under control before progressing to more advanced issues. So if you pan to the left, the sound should come out of your left speaker. Pan to the right and it comes out of the right speaker. If it doesn’t, swap your speaker cables round. If that doesn’t fix it keep checking your cables intill you discover where they may have crossed.

OK that’s basic. But there are other basics too. One common error in recording is swapping the channels unintentionally.The effects of this could be…

  • In an orchestral recording, the violins are on the right rather than the left. (If the conductor has chosen to put the second violin section on the right, then the first violin section, which generally plays all the tunes, should be on the left.)
  • In a film or TV soundtrack, the character on the left of the screen speaks and their voice comes out of the speaker on the right.

Clearly either of these would be major errors, It’s an easy mistake to make though, so you have to be sure and check everything. Also sometimes where you pan is open to interpretation.Take the example of a recording of a grand piano…You might say that the low notes should come mostly from the left speaker, and the high notes mostly from the right. That’s how the piano keyboard is laid out.But that’s not the way the audience hears it…The grand piano is always positioned on stage with the keyboard on the left. So the low-pitched strings, which are longer, extend further to the right than the high pitched strings. So by this example, the high notes should mostly come from the left speaker and the low notes mostly from the right. It’s up to you! There’s no right or wrong. It’s either the pianist’s perspective or the audience’s perspective. Either is equally valid.

If anyone has any other interesting examples of right/wrong/up-to-you panning, I would love to hear about them.

Ron

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Do computers give you a headache?

February 26th, 2008

Computers can be great tools for recording. But they can sometimes give you headaches, and even nightmares…Here’s an interesting question from a Sound Affair Mastering visitor… I have played guitar for almost 30 years, and have been recording on tape for years, and on a Zoom MRS 1266 CD for about 4 years. I have recently been looking to get into computer based recording via Pro tools Mbox (not sure which model yet). My problem is that I want to buy a separate computer to record audio only, as recommended by just about everyone in the know. I have no idea what the system requirements specs actually mean. Is a 2.4 GHz way better than a 2.3? Do I need a separate hard drive to record on and not the one in the computer itself, and what the hell is DDRAM and SDRAM anyway? I keep seeing words(?) like Fat32 and IDE/ATA, SATA, ATTO, HBA and Firmware etc. I can surf the net and get around Windows pretty well, but I cannot speak Computerese, please, can you help translate? Thanks. I got a headache,
Mike O.
 We all like computers because they give us great recording and audio mastering facilities at an incredibly low price, compared to the way things used to be years ago. Accordingly we often talk about computers and software. But we don’t like the way computers often get in the way of making great recordings. Perhaps you shouldn’t have to be any kind of computer genius to be able to use one to make great music and recordings.So, back to the question…You are exactly right that you should devote a computer to audio. It will simplify things no end. And if you only connect it to the Internet specifically to register software and then disconnect it immediately, you will be fairly safe from being preyed upon by those who would do your computer harm from a distance. Now, talking about speed. Buy the fastest computer you can afford. But also bear in mind that there might be a significant price-hike to gain just a couple of extra points of gigahertz. More speed equals more tracks and more plug-in instances, but 2.4 GHz is only fractionally better than 2.3. You probably won’t notice the difference. Also, bear in mind that your hard disk affects the number of tracks you can achieve. A faster rotation speed is better. 10,000 rpm is better than 7200. 7200 is better than 5400, which really is the lowest practical limit. ATA is the same as IDE and is an internal hard disk connectivity technology that is just on the way out now. SATA is the newer standard and will lead to further progress. However, many great recordings have been made on ATA drives. It is usually recommended not to record onto the system disk. This is busy doing system stuff, so your audio will have to take its turn. A second internal disk is a good option. An external FireWire disk is a good option too. Many people find that external USB disks work fine, but since the whole point of FireWire is that it is intended for audio and video signals, it is a safer bet. Regarding the rest of the ‘computerese’ you mention, this is really the province of your dealer. If you are not confident with computers, then you should buy a complete system from a single pro audio dealer, and get them to guarantee that it will work. If it doesn’t, then it’s up to them to solve any problems for you.By the way, if you want to have nightmares as well as headaches, just look at Digidesign’s compatibility info.

This will show very clearly what we don’t like about computer recording…

I hope this helps.

Ron.

Be your own record label.

February 15th, 2008

You now can have worldwide distribution of your music into iTunes and more and keep 100% of your royalties. Anyone who makes music can have a career without a record label, you can just “sign” yourself through TuneCore.
Digital stores like iTunes allow all music to be in stock, and have sold over 2 billion songs with more than 1/2 the sales coming from non-major label artists with over 400,000 songs delivered. Over $5 million dollars has been earned by TuneCore customers. Go to: www.tunecore.com for more information.

DIY Audio Mastering at Home

January 26th, 2008

DIY ‘ audio mastering at home’ is a tricky and complex process that takes years of experience to do it right. We all know your recordings can (and should) be mastered, and you have a home. But you can’t master your recordings at home. You can try, but you won’t end up with master quality results. First, briefly let me explain what CD mastering is. It is optimizing an already mixed stereo recording, so that it sounds as good or better in comparison with other CD’s or music of the same genre. It also means matching your songs on the disk so they all sound compatible with each other using very expensive and precise mastering equipment worth thousands of dollars. Software plug ins or a generic mastering preset are just not satisfactory to get the professional results for an artist that commands the attention of a music publisher, major label or retail record distributor in today’s competitive music market. Now the first step for mastering a song is to be equalized, then compressed. The compression stage brings up the average level so the song sounds louder, and then perhaps a final EQ stage to optimize the frequency contours. Is this easy to do? No way! The technical processes are easy enough, but to get it right is very difficult indeed. The chances are that you will end up with something worse than you started out with. In professional practice, music mastering is done by specialist mastering engineers. They spend their time doing nothing else and at times will master typically two projects in a day. Over the years, they gain a fantastic wealth of essential experience that you simply can’t gain at your home or from a home recording or mastering studio offering these type of audio services. And believe me there are a lot of them out there on the web promising professional results, but most projects end up with amateur sound or sub standard quality. I know, I often have to fix these problems. If you are really serious about getting the best from your recordings before you release them on CD, then you should pay for the services of a “pro” mastering engineer. That will be money well spent and less of a headache.

How To Improve Speaker Performance in Your Studio

December 22nd, 2007

Picture the scene in your studio. You are sitting at your mixing console, DAW or control surface, right between your loudspeakers at mix position. The acoustics of your room are relatively well controlled. Although there are first, second and third order sound reflections from around the room coming at you, they are not too offensive and don’t distract you from the direct sound of the monitors. But something else is bothering you. Somehow things don’t sound quite right. What could the problem be? Well, the problem could be that you are hearing ‘echoes’ that arrive before the direct sound from the monitors.  All monitors radiate sound from their cabinets. Try putting your ear up against the rear of a loudspeaker cabinet and you will see exactly what I mean. Generally it sounds pretty poor. When this sound gets into the air, it definitely does degrade the sound of the loudspeaker. Also the sound from the cabinet can get into the speakers’ supports. And from there it can distribute itself all around the walls, ceiling and floor of the room. And all of those surfaces can radiate or vibrate that sound at you.  Perhaps you may think it’s just like another reflection then and may not be too much of a problem. But there is a problem. And that is that sound travels faster through solids than it does through air. So sound from the cabinet that is pretty poor, is arriving at your ears sooner than the direct sound from the speakers drive units. This is greatly confusing to you when recording or mixing and you are trying to capture the best sound possible. The answer is somewhat simple and that is to decouple the loudspeaker cabinets physically from the room. There are all kinds of decoupling devices from pro audio dealers and my experience has been anything small such as foam wedges won’t really solve the problem. Ideally what you would need would be a heavy slab of material to stand each loudspeaker on. Underneath the slab would be a layer of resilient material. The heavy slab would be difficult for the cabinet to vibrate, so not much energy would get through. And the slab is decoupled from the room by the resilient layer. I know this may not work for everyone’s studio because of such limitations such as physical space or budget, but there are quite a few solutions on the internet and from several manufactures that have a remedy to this problem. I have come up with one solution of my own just by using simple products found at your local hardware store.  I’m not suggesting you spend a lot of time worrying about this, because usually there are far worse acoustic problems to deal with especially in the home studio environment. But it is a real problem that won’t go away, and if you want your studio to be perfect, you should definitely look into this issue.

On my next Tech Tips article, I will explain how to improve speaker performance in your studio by at least fifty percent by just using a few household items.

Ron Leeper

A simple test to check your microphone pre amp performance.

October 17th, 2007

As long as your preamp is of professional quality and working properly, there is nothing about it that will prevent you from making good recordings.

Preamps really don’t matter anywhere near as much as many popular recording myths suggest. Your speakers are important, the acoustics of your room are important, your microphone selection and positioning are important, and your skills and are important. The microphone preamp usally comes after all of that in order of importance.

But still, you might have concerns about your preamp, and one of them is noise.

The correct way to set preamp gain is to increase it to whatever value that is necessary to achieve a good strong reading on the meters of your recording system, without clipping or distortion.

But you may find that when you do this, there is a lot of background noise.

This may be the acoustic background noise that is present in the room. Raising the gain of the preamp does raise this, but only in proportion to the signal you want to record. So the signal-to-noise ratio from this source of noise stays constant.

But it might also be that the noise generated by the preamp itself increases. This should not happen. In fact, many preamp manufacturers quote their noise levels measured at maximum gain, because this is where the signal-to-noise ratio is greatest.

So here is a simple test…

1. Set up a microphone up in a quiet room and set the gain on your preamp to maximum. Make a recording of the background noise of the room. Now save it as recording #1
2. Lower the gain of the preamp by 20 dB. Make another recording. Save that as recording #2.
3. Normalize both recordings in your digital audio workstation so that they are the same level.

Now, there are three possibilities…

* If the noise levels are about the same. In this case you can stop worrying and get back to recording.
* Recording #2 is noisier than Recording #1. This is normal. As above, stop worrying.
* Recording #1 is noisier than Recording #2. This is a distinct warning sign that something is wrong with your preamp. This simply should not happen.
Perhaps it may be time to look into a better quality pre amp or the unit you have may need repair or calabration.

Of course, I have only discussed pre amp noise level at high gain settings. But at least in this simple test, it is possible to see whether if your preamp is working properly.

I hope this helps.

Ron

Update on the CD mastering for Jimmy Levine’s (SHARE MY LOVE) project.

February 27th, 2007

 I want to thank all of you in the UK  for everything that you are doing for my CD “Share My Love”. For without you, DJ Dave Cee, Michael O’ Donnell at 209 radio, Soul Sonic Jorge, Ruth Fisher and Eddie Gordon at M2M, and many more.  I would not be working my way up the charts all over the UK as fast as I am .I truly appreciate you.

Jimmy Levine.